Why not take this one Manfrotto MT055CXPRO4 + MHXPRO-BHQ6 - Foto Erhardt (foto-erhardt.de)
and Mike… what’s the weight of the camera with the heaviest Lens to choose the head
TRY that one – before you buy new. For your balcony shots you don’t need something for ‘travel’,
but in a convenient height while still not shaky (w/o center column or center column down …).
And if it’s the head, that is in your way like @Joanna mentioned, check if you can replace it (and reuse with a ‘travel’ tripod in case you are in need of). In general, 3D heads are better suited for landscape and stuff where you have time to adjust.
If I may add – your 2,8/80-200 mm Nikon is a heavy lens!
I had a more modern version (AF-S 2,8/70-200 mm G ED VRII), which came with a lens foot. So, if your version has one – use it! The camera is much better balanced (easier for the tripod head to hold steady) and all the weight is not hanging from the camera’s bayonett.
It has been a very long time since I last dug through all my D750 menus and settings. I will obviously need to go through them again, so I understand what my camera is now trying to do. I guess it’s good that I use these settings to my advantage.
Long ago, I found this video - watched it once, then watched it again. As I recall, just about everything they suggested I went along with, even when I didn’t understand. Joanna may or may not find some things useful, and will probably find things she disagrees with:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmYJuCZiJWE
Speaking of matrix metering, isn’t that a good starting point for general use, unless I have a good reason to change it?
Since I know nothing of Velvia, unless you feel it’s a better starting point than no starting point at all, wouldn’t I be better off not selecting anything yet for this purpose?
Yes, I guess I do, but obviously not as much so as you do. My “visualization” keeps changing as I work on an image, and see how it is “developing”. I get ideas all the time, and I try to not get locked into a specific path, keeping my mind open for better ideas.
Color range - will work on/with that later today. PhotoJoseph did great videos on this a year or two ago, when it was first introduced, and before I knew anything much about PhotoLab. It’s time for me to dig in and learn how to use it. Will probably start by watching his Webinar again.
Sneaky!!! What a cool trick. I will never forget this. Brilliant! (literally)
My only reservation about the 055 series is that I think that they are seriously over specified for a DSLR but, if you want to support an 8" x 10" view camera… 
And ball heads are nowhere near as easy or precise to operate as three-way heads.
@mikemyers I just checked and found that Manfrotto Canada have the tripod legs in stock 290 XTRA CARBON Carbon fiber 3 section tripod - MT290XTC3 | Manfrotto CA
And the head separately 3 Way Tripod Head Mark II in Adapto with retractable levers - MH804-3W | Manfrotto CA
You don’t need menus to change metering mode…
For everyday use, I find I get better exposures from centre-wighted. Matrix can often be fooled by stuff on the edge of the frame. But have a go at spot mode (over-exposing by 1⅔ stops) tonight to see what a difference it makes.
Velvia is only any good when you want to emulate that look and feel, otherwise, take your pick and play.
That is fine. Pre-visualisation comes in useful when you have a definite idea but, doesn’t preclude changing your mind.
Either that or just start playing, starting with the basics I just showed you and then play a bit more. Start by simply boosting/muting saturation on one coloured dot, then see what happens when you spread the segment.
Well, I checked the video link – he is talking how to use the cam for wedding AND with camera off flash – hence using (M)anual mode, but no word about camera metering.
To change from Matrix metering to Center weigthed (custom menu → b5 preset) or Spot metering, just hold down the equivalent Metering button (top right of your cam, next to the display) and toggle / skip through them with a right / left flick of the custom dial (top right on the back).
I suggest to try out, what @Joanna explained in full length and compare to what you are used too.
It’s important to get a feeling for what you (your cam) can do.
[Personally, I use the center weigthed metering (12mm circle) and adjust exposure with the aforesaid custom button, but different to the fellow’s (tiring) video explanations “d8 → EASY ISO OFF” and some more …]
just saw, you got it twice – so …
And from my memory, matrix metering tends to expose a little incorrectly if there are very bright or very dark areas somewhere in the frame.
With Nikon and now with Olympus, I always use centre and only occasionally choose spot with exposure lock when there are extreme light situations.
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that’s correct 
I remember, Nikon started ‘Matrix metering’ with Nikon FA, which replaced my FE. While I used to do a lot of macro stuff, bright little blossoms often got overexposed (slides are not forgiving).
Looks good, but no head. All things being equal, I prefer buying from Amazon, where I can send it back after a couple of weeks if I don’t like it.
Isn’t aluminum acceptable? Half a pound isn’t that big of a deal.
If you’re not in the USA, things get complicated - but thank you for the offer!!!
Yikes!!! Converted to dollars, that is far more than I would prefer to spend.
Weight of heaviest gear - let’s say the “biggest” Nikon, with a 80-200 Nikon lens. But who knows what else I may want to mount on it in the future?
I have - it is rock steady, heavy, solid, and the only issue is one of the “feet” is missing. The head has never been in my way. I think it’s the kind of head Joanna wants me to get:
I suspect I should just buy or make a new rubber foot, and continue to use this one.
My 80-200 also has a lens foot, so that is covered.
It seems to work great with the D750.
…and YES, it is HEAVY !! As you note, it supports the camera, not the other way 'round.
It does have a 3-way head - never thought about heads until now. I thought they were all like mine.
Yes, I was thinking of all the other settings from the menu. As I recall, I used to keep it on “center weighted”, not “averaging” or “spot”. Geez, it’s been too long - I forgot where that switch was located. Great!!!
Yes, I forgot, I used to use center weighted, and think that’s what the video recommended. If I get a decent sunset I will take on that way, and another spot metering, overexposed by 1 and 2/3 stops. Note to self, bring notepad!! Also my special progressive glasses that let me see the viewfinder or
Joanna - on your D850, how do you meter to get the + 1 2/3 stops setting? I assume you are using (M)anual mode, and selecting an exposure for the brightest part of the image. Then what?
(If it includes using the AEL/AFL button on the back of the camera, I can’t do that, as that is now my focus button.
It’s not just weight. Because of the woven structure of carbon fibre legs, they are not so susceptible to vibration as aluminium and, thus, more stable, especially in windy conditions.
Certainly a three-way head is more convenient. But, if you want a single tripod that is both strong and easy to transport, the Bogen is never going to fulfil the second requirement. The Manfrotto 290 can easily carry up to 11lbs, which is more than the weight of my Ebony with a decent lens on it. Whereas the Bogen is designed for much larger cameras and it would be inconvenient to have to fit or remove the RC0 adapter plate to/from your camera whenever you want to use the tripod. On the other hand, the MH804 head uses the much smaller RC2 plate, which you can leave on the camera all the time. I have one such plate permanently on each of my cameras, apart from the Ebony, which has an RC4 adapter.
As you surmise, I am using Manual mode. The procedure is this:
Before you put the camera on the tripod -
-
Set the ISO to 100
-
Set the aperture to f/10
-
Set the exposure compensation to +1⅔
-
If you have a zoom lens on, zoom in temporarily to pick the brightest part of the scene (lighting, etc) or, with a fixed lens, just point the spot metering box in the viewfinder to the largest such bright point.
-
Rotate the main command dial (shutter speed) until the meter in the bottom of the viewfinder is centred.
-
Place the camera on the tripod, frame your shot and focus.
-
Assuming the exposure time is less than 30 seconds, touch the shutter button lightly to release it. If the camera its stable enough, you shouldn’t need to worry about a remote release or shutter delay.
If the exposure is longer than 30 seconds, the Time mode is shown as (–) on the display and you will need to press once to open the shutter and again to close it.
When i was looking for a tripod i came to Siriu, Manfrotto, Mefoto
The carbon version where lighter and have less vibrations but are steep in price.
I bought a twistlock travel ballhead siriu. But for g80 m43 it’s sturdy enough.
Siriu makes nice tripods for a the price and Mefoto is much better then most think.
(it sounds as a aliexpres but is quite good build.)
Manfrotto is probably the best choice but higher in the price tree.
You must think which use would be most.
Travel, less then 1 kg.
Night shot’s , (means heavy tripod so less for travel.
Multipurpose, say a 1kg 1,3kg travel type.
Benro could be also a candidate.
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Yes, much better. Of course on the Leica, I can’t access the battery or memory card without removing the bottom plate on the camera, something the M11 is supposed to “fix” - no bottom plate, and easy access. I am trying to buy the missing “foot”, so I have the Bogen for use at home. I can order the new aluminum leg model for a good price from Amazon - need to see if I can find it in carbon as you suggest.
when you are NOT spot metering …
→ Combine back-button AF-ON + shutter-release AE-L
( pdf p.167-170 + 389, 390 / print p.139-142 + 361, 362)
( custom menu c1 = ON + f4 = Press AF-ON … )
→ DxO PhotoLab and camera viewfinders - #47 by Wolfgang
or flick exposure compensation on the fly [Personally … d8 …]
→ Using PhotoLab 4 to process sunset photos - #342 by Wolfgang
Mike, I’m not going to repeat again.
Wolfgang, maybe I’m both ignorant and very slow. I downloaded the pdf version again, and not only do I not see a simple way to do this, I’ve almost forgotten what it is I’m trying to do.
For starters, I do not want to combine my rear button to do more than one thing. All I want it to do, is focus the camera when I press it.
I looked at the PDF for pages 167-170, 389, 390, 361, and 362, and the custom menu. It’s over my head, and after two weeks of non-use, I won’t remember any of this. I need something simple, like press the button on the back to focus - and I’ve even forgotten that after using the Leica for a few weeks.
However, your reference to Joanna’s post seems simple and straight forward. I will try that tomorrow:
Simple, straight forward, and I will print it out and keep it in my pocket.
Thanks for trying to help me - I think when I was younger, I learned faster.
Two additions.
I obviously need to learn a lot more about the D750. My brother found an excellent book on the Df, easy to read, easy to understand, and I searched for the same book for the D750. I want it as a book, so I can read it as often as read my (paper) book on the M10. With the Nikon manual, I get confusabobbled as to why I’m doing things, but this author makes things especially clear.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1781451427/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Then, right after posting the earlier information, I put my D750 in front of me, and watched this video for what must be the umpteenth time:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmYJuCZiJWE
For every change he suggested, I went into my camera and checked if I had already done it (usually yes), and also did things that I didn’t feel were necessary many years ago, but the way he explained it they now seemed very useful - even the movie settings. It took forever, but I was also re-learning how to use these functions. I left my camera set for a white balance of 5600 K, which I think Joanna suggested a year and a half ago - the fellow said this didn’t matter anyway, as long as I was shooting in ‘raw’ mode, as I could set it later.
I also saved my settings “just in case” - now need to copy to my computer.
EOF. Off to sleep.
Wow! that’s truly amazing. So, you have to attach and detach a tripod adapter every time you want to use the M10 on a tripod? This tells me that it really was only designed for handheld street use - the bottom plate meant to “disguise” it as a film camera.
Did you not see my reply to one of Guenter’s posts?
You are not the only one 
Seriously though, Because I am used to teaching total novices in our camera club, I’ve learnt to KISS (keep it simple stupid)
Unfortunately, when you get a brand new camera, it is usually setup in “idiot mode” - everything set to automatic and to give you “instant gratification” by making everything average, including default JPEG file settings so you can put images from your newly acquired toy on social media 
This means the first thing you have to do is go through every single menu item, turning all that stuff off.
Having just received my D850, I had to do just that and my approach was - if I didn’t know what it did, turn it off - I will return to those settings as and when I need them.
As to the function buttons, once again, KISS. Only setup the ones you recognise to do only one thing, what you are used to them doing. The only extra button I assign is the function button on the front, on the grip side, which I use to activate the virtual horizon in the viewfinder.
But do make sure you set the Picture Control settings to “Flat”, so you get a much better idea of how the RAW file will look when you look on the back screen.
The simple to understand screenshot about permanent Exposure Compensation is taken from your manual pdf p.171, 172 / print p.143, 144 – permanent exp comp until you reset it manually.
The other 2 possibilities are to correct on the fly.
- AE-L with half press down of the release button (I guess like with your Leica) – good per single picture
- exposure correction with the main command dial – good for a series as long your cam is not switched off / exp comp reset automatically
Don’t flood your head with watching a tiring video – try it out yourself, one by one!
Hi Mike,
you are jumping for every blog you can catch and forget that a camaera it’s like a weapon during army time. You have to learn how to use, repeat all the steps thousand of times to got it in your brain. If I wake you up 3 am (thats the best time to make an attack on a camp 
) and ask you to set your camera for birds you don’t have to think about.
Maybe you check something like that, if one of the Nikon heroes gives an okay Recommended Nikon D750 Settings (photographylife.com)
For my Olympus I’ve found a manual like this from a guy with the name Grabherr, and every moment I’ve a little bit of time I’ve played with the menues, read the manual and so on.
It’s not a guaranteed that I do not forget some points, but it goes better and better every time.
And like Wolfgang said in another thread concentrate on your camera not on writing posts 
Always good light and a well adjusted camera
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That’s a very interesting article Guenter. There are a couple of odd menu settings I would disagree with but, on the whole, a useful step by step guide.
Unless you have a camera that has a “Quick Control Screen” like this…
Here’s the few changes I would make:
-
NEF (RAW) recording:
- Type:
Lossless compressedNo Compression, if available - NEF (RAW) bit depth: 14-bit
- Type:
-
White balance:
AUTO (AUTO1 Normal)K - 5600/0 -
Set Picture Control:
SD (Standard), Default valuesFlat (set everything to 0) -
ISO sensitivity settings
- ISO sensitivity:
100400 - Auto ISO sensitivity control:
ONOFFMaximum sensitivity: 6400Minimum shutter speed: Auto → Middle of the scale
- ISO sensitivity: