If there are any Leica Q3 users here, I should be interested to know whether they share my experience. This is that when importing raw files from the Q3 into PhotoLab 6 and using the DXO camera profile, the reds come out too prominently – as I used to have with Kodachrome. Changing to “neutral colour” improves this, but it is still not right.
David
If you’d share an original raw file and its sidecar, we could check what we get on our computers. Feel free to use a shared folder in your cloud or services like wetransfer.com.
“Too prominent” can be a matter of taste, so an example file can help to distinguish between your perception and interpretation and our’s.
www.dpreview.com/sample-galleries/9356330178/leica-q3-sample-gallery
lesser amount of raws with reds = Leica Q3 Review | Photography Blog
Too prominent compared to what? Are your comparing the on screen images to what you are seeing in other software? What do you mean when you say as you used to have with Kodachrome. Are you comparing the color of a Q3 image on your monitor with a Kodachrome print?
Mark
Thank you for your swift response. Here are files: Proton Drive
dxo.tiff was done using HSL and desaturating and reducing luminance on red. dxo1.tiff was done on a virtual copy using Neutral Colour rendering. The truth is probably in between the two. I have also included the OOC jpeg.
Many thanks,
David
Compared to real life and what I get with my Canon R6.
David
Every camera system records colors a little differently. Perhaps the issue is you are not used, or don’t care for, the Q3 color rendition if you are comparing it to what you get with a Canon R6.
Mark
camera profiles have more impact … suffice to try DxP PL vs ACR/LR vs C1 on the same raw … and use different camera profiles in each on top of that
DxO does not supply reproduction profiles… so no “real life” “colors” were even promised ( that is before illumination )
I’ll agree that DxO’s colours for my cameras are quite some distance from reproduction quality - e.g. greens too yellow, default saturation too strong.
However, the promise on their website:
“Advanced color science plus powerful creative tools
Capture and reproduce colors with complete accuracy, and then use tools that give you absolute creative freedom.”
it is called marketing …
on a serious note you can (A) try to find some profile that you will like ( even from different camera models or film emulations or (B) try to create your own camera profile to the same effect or (C) use DxO as a NR/optic correction preprocessor and take linear DNG to the converter which has a camera profile that you like or (D) get used to it
I see what you mean, they are too strong for my taste too.
A slight HSL correction did the trick for me. Here’s a partial preset to try.
Leica Q3 de-redder.preset.zip (1.6 KB)
Tools used: HSL (magenta extended to red, saturation at -20)
Thank you very much for your help: I will experiment with this tomorrow.
Is it possible to incorporate modifications like this into PL6, such that I can always apply it to Q3 raw files? I have a feeling that this should be possible and have been reading the manual again, but havent found it yet.
Best,
David
Look for presets, creation of presets, partial presets etc. and about how to set the default preset.
Here’s another useful resource:
I don’t see anything fundamentally wrong with the default camera rendering - it’s all up to taste for me. Some reds are near the sRGB gamut edge, so perhaps using the ‘Protect saturated colors’ will help you in the easiest way, as it was in my case. Setting Red.Saturation to -44 and Red.Luminance to -14 made the red letter ‘A’ look too dull for me. Front parts of the scene were lit by a darker cloud than those further away, so the red letters ‘A’ show up more intensly, while the front is rather dull. This type of lighting is usually differently perceived by the brain on place than on photo. There’s always a possibility of problem with monitor, but if you say it’s OK for R6 rendering, it doesn’t seem to be the case.
Side remarks:
You don’t really need DeepPRIME XD for ISO100 non-HDR photo.
There is a strong contrast between peaceful scene on the ground and the dramatic sky.
Today I would use ClearView=25 and the HSL Saturation=-15 and Vibrance=+40 trick to get more natural, but still strong sky and more overall balance (+some selective tone changes). Tomorrow I might like the your version better. The question is not about color fidelity but about your mood fidelity, otherwise you wouldn’t use ClearView or SmartLighting.
For these types of photos I usually use Lens Softness correction set to 0. On 24MP camera +1 would cause distraction by the trees, but on 70MP it still seems to work (4k monitor).
As far as I know, no CFA provides the same spectral response as human eye in the first place.
Probably R6 and Q3 have different spectral response in R,G1,B,G2 channels and some paints on the picture might have strong spectral spikes, so they are recorded with very different data. There were some measurements published by dxomark. My friend still cares for his ancient 30D camera, because of the colors he likes. On the dxomark site it was one of the worst cameras in terms of color fidelity…
do you also happen to know ( I think not ) that this is a condition for a simple matrix color transform to work as “eye/brain”… reproduction profiles for cameras are LUT based (for that reason) - and of course they are just aiming ( not that they achieve that ) for accuracy in <= ~1 dE2K range at best …
Please try to reformulate your post to make it understandable. Sounds like early AI 
You seem to have set in-camera jpeg settings to standard and sRGB. Do you feel the SOOC jpeg is also too red. Just trying to get a better sense for your “red”. Thanks.