Off-Topic - advice, experiences and examples, for images that will be processed in PhotoLab

Certainly the plan, thanks. What’s the feeling on third party batteries? I’ve generally avoided them but many others don’t

I use third party batteries and had never problems with them.

George

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Any preferred make? Assuming they come from a reliable provider of course, I know the battery market can be a bit like the SD card market with lots of dodgy buys around

Suppose, firmware updates take place when one is at home – and had time to charge any battery.

That’s the problem. Fakers will also imitate the labels and other features and the distribution channel is the same for fakes and genuine parts. Even Nikon had to call back batteries. I read so much about huuuuuge SD cards sold on Amazon marketplaces which were rebranded 8 GB ones, deleting all data until 256 GB were transferred. Batteries are the same. As long as I don’t know Nikon’s sources reliably , I prefer to pay a bit extra and don’t need to worry.

Exception here as well: I’ve some elder little cameras with retractable zoom for “everyday in the bag” like Canon G11 or Nikon P7800, for them I use substitutes. Preferrably not from Amazon as they don’t give a damn who is selling what on their marketplace.

Small photo dealers may not have the resources to check on batteries, but they sometimes know more what’s good and what’s not.

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Mike, this is way more interesting.

As you mentioned to work on the sky … I’m not so sure if it’s worth it. While it looks partly overcast, it has this gradation towards the background at the RHS, which together with the perspective supports the 3D-impression. That is, replacing the sky with a uniform blueish colour will look boring. Try it yourself to get an idea of it.
About the wires. When you remove them, take care for the power line pools too. And there is a bigger building at the RHS …
May I suggest to crop off something, while leaving enough space around the subject, e.g.

And to counter the counter light try
Screen Shot 01-24-23 at 09.58 AM 001
which brights up the subject just by a little.
→ Edits must not be visible.

Or simply ignore and use it as a high resolution box camera that you are in charge of.

Which is exactly what I’ve got with my D850. My main reasons for choosing it were for the high resolution and high dynamic range and that it took all my existing Nikon lenses that have already been in use for the D100, D200 and D810 that I previously owned.

I just hung a small exhibition of eight 60cm x 40cm B&W prints at local restaurant. Printed on Canson Baryta paper, they are simply stunning and I keep on finding myself enthralled by them, even though they are my own work. Of course, what helped was the DeepPRIME noise reduction that completely removed any noise from the 10,000 ISO shots without losing any of the detail.

I bought Duracell replacements for my D200 and found that their life was definitely a lot shorter than the Nikon originals. Also, the Nikon batteries seem to hold their charge for long periods of non-use, whereas the Duracell would go flat even without use.

I shot an air display by the Patrouille de France, taking over 600 shots and not needing to use the second battery in the grip.

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`Does the D200 use AA batteries or is Duracell making special batteries for the D200?

George

They make all sorts of camera batteries https://www.duracelldirect.fr/appareil-photo-numerique-batterie-adaptateur-chargeur.html, but based on my experience, I will stick with Nikon’s own.

I’ve never seen Nikon batteries from Duracell. I didn’t know.

George

Big crop, bit soft (I didn’t miss focus but the shutter speed is too slow) but I’m really not a birder so I’m pretty happy

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Me neither, but my first DSLR Pentax K-m used AA cells, even rechargeable eneloop batteries were working. A very big plus for Pentax at the time.

I bought the less expensive aftermarket batteries from B&H years ago for my D750. They worked fine, but didn’t last as long. As an “extra” battery, they served that purpose fine. As long as I didn’t use the flash, the EL-15 seemed to last “forever”. As they got older, battery life decreased.

Nikon has changed from an EL-15 to an EL-15b for my D780. First impression is it lasts much longer, but then too, my existing batteries are several years old. (I also no longer take as many photos of a given scene, trying to take only two or three, not 20 or 30.)

This article explains things in detail:
https://www.pictureline.com/blogs/products/comparing-the-nikon-en-el15-vs-en-el15a-vs-en-el15b

I didn’t know this until now, but they are all interchangeable in the Nikon DSLR cameras. I no longer buy aftermarket “stuff” at lower prices. I prefer the OEM parts for batteries, and even more so for SD cards. (I don’t remember if the D850 has a built in flash, but if so, battery life is apparently calculated accordingly.)

With all the use @Joanna is getting with her D850, maybe use that as a guide.

I’ve ordered one from Nikon, thanks all

I like your crop more than mine, as it makes the image stronger. I already cropped it a LOT.


The advantage of the small camera is portability, but I sorely missed my longer lenses. In retrospect, I should have brought a more capable camera with me. I learned that lesson… And this is one case where I would have been much better off with my Nikon + zoom. As the oxen got closer, I was about to run out of vertical zoom, which wasn’t as easy to control on the Panasonic Lumix…

You lost me here; I did change my curve to make it closer to yours, but why does my display look so completely different? Is it because of Windows vs. Mac?

Screenshot 2023-01-24 at 08.07.20

At the top, you have an adjustable top box at the left that is set to RGB. Mine is different. Is this because my image is in JPG, not RAW ?

I suspect you are working with the “gamma” setting. Other than how to spell it, I am lost. I’ve never deliberately adjusted it, as far as I know, although when I adjust the tone curve, that seems to be related. I did find this explanation:

I think I should start a new thread asking about how to adjust “gamma” in PhotoLab, including how to do so, and why to do so. Most of the technical things I deal with I think I have a rough idea of how to do so, and provided my display is calibrated, I get to see the effects of making changes. Not so with “gamma”. :frowning: Me bad…

Now it’s EN-EL15C. Higher capacity, 2280mAh. See https://www.nikonimgsupport.com/eu/BV_article?articleNo=000042103&configured=1&lang=en_GB

George

We also have a Canon G10 compact, which we leave in the glovebox of the car most of the time for “emergencies”. It virtually never loses charge - even after just under a year.

Here’s one from the D850 of static subjects. Really static subjects, not much chance of this bunch moving at all :joy:

Thanks for the tip for buying from Nikon. I was surprised to find they were cheaper than other third party retail sites. I’ve ordered two of the EN-EL15c, for their greater capacity.

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I compared the prices and am surprised too.

George

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