There is always the Nikon Zf which is less expensive at $2000, and as an old film camera user you might be very comfortable with its ergonomics . It has a dedicated switch to chose between two different B&W modes and has 8 stops of in-body image stabilization which is terrific when using unstabilized lenses.
Mark
You could buy a Pentax K3 Monochrome plus $300 lens and still only spend half what the Leica costs.
Mine does too, and it even has in indication in the viewfinder. But I find the former a pain to bring up (on the rear screen) and the latter not accurate enough, and just as distracting as looking at the edge of the frame.
Just wondering. The Leika B/W doesn’t catch colors. So there is nothing to convert. Every sensel is one pixel in contrary with other dslr’s every pixel has to be created out of more sensels. I assume this camera is sharper as the normal color camera.
George
In that case, you should be able, or it may even be preferable, to use coloured filters on the lens.
In my logic you can only use colored filters. The image shouldn’t have any color info. Using color corrections in post will add color to a B/W image. I’m not sure.
George
Here’s what happens if you add a red filter to a 16bit greyscale TIFF in PL…
Which is why you need to use filters on the lens, just like we used to do in the days of film.
Ah, but does it show the effect of B&W film with a simulated coloured filter or do you have to use a physical filter?
What I wrote, it’s adding color.
You used Filmpack which I don’t have. I downloaded a B/W Leika image. It doesn’t react on the channel mixer.
I also downloaded a jpg from that image, it doesn’t react on the channel mixer either. A B/W created with PL does react. Strange.
George
I just downloaded a sample Leica M10 Monochrome DNG image, which PL7 won’t open.
But the EXIF shows the colour space as RGB, not Greyscale.
PL doesn’t open it. But you can download a JPG from it too. I got my one from Leica M11 Monochrom sample gallery: Digital Photography Review
George
Well, the Zf is bound to be a very popular camera, for many reasons, especially considering the cost. I have no desire to own one, regardless of the cost. I doubt I would be happy with the ergonomics, although I love the style. If I don’t need full-frame, then I already own the Fuji X100f, which I love. Fuji makes a similar camera with interchangeable lenses, which is yet another option. For now, Nikon has reached the end of the line, for me - although the Z9 (other than cost) is pretty high up on my “maybe, for the future” list. The hospital I volunteer at recently purchased two Sony ML cameras, neither of which I would buy. As for the Zf, the reviews I trust the most were very discouraging, although many of them just loved the Zf. It’s just not for me.
Yes, but does it have the technology of the Monochrom Leica? I can read all I want, as reading is free, but the cost of the Monochrom is a barrier that holds me back.
Since it is digital, does it matter when/how/where I apply the red filter? Either on the lens, or in my computer? You’ve done both - what are your thoughts? I suspect both will have a very similar effect. I think I still have all my old filters (but they may be the wrong size). I can try this myself, taking an image with and without the red filter, then comparing. Or, I can pour out all my pennies, and maybe when the pile reaches my ceiling, buy a Monochrom. 
I guess the Monochrom won’t be added to PhotoLab’s approved list for quite some time. The Leica M8 never made it there.
Try to rename the EXIF data to a regular Leica M11, and maybe that will do the trick (which is how I do my M8 images, changing the EXIF data to M10).
Yes. It is because it is digital that it becomes important. I have just proved that PL will colour a B&W TIFF file if you add a digital filter. But, if you take a photo on B&W film or a B&W sensor, then the only way for a filter to have any effect is for it to be in front of the lens.
Which is why I only have one 100mm square red filter and a Lee Filters square holder system, with one adapter ring for each lens.
As I and others have said many times before, why waste such inordinate amounts of money when PL and FP, which you already have, does the conversion and filtering at no extra cost.
Stop looking at technology for your answers and simply do what you can already do at no extras cost, just a bit more brain power.
@Joanna,
I took a RAW and changed the yellow slider in the channel mixer from left to right, the image changed.
Then I added the B/W preset to it, played with the yellow slider and the image changed.
I save that last image as JPG and opened it again: no reaction using the yellow slider.
It seems that the channel mixer only works with RAW data, but it isn’t greyed out.
George
Well, I am doing (trying to do) as you have suggested. Real World answer.
…but my imagionation dreams of all sorts of things, many of which are not possible. Somehow, some of them actually do happen though. Dreaming is fun, and free. My imagination comes up with lots of ideas, but they get filtered by “reality”.
Even if a M10 Monochrom can produce technically better b&w images, is that worth $5,000 to $10,000 to me?
You know me well enough to know what’s likely to happen, and what is just dreaming.
Interesting. Weird, but interesting 
Joanna, this thread shows what I think you’re trying to tell me, but expanded greatly. It even shows some things I might try in my D780 later today:
" Setting up to shoot black and white is dead easy, and with a little bit of understanding of filters (which I’m about to explain), you can creatively express to a level you may not have known before. Also, not having to carry around filters that will fit all your lenses is a great thing. Shooting digital B&W has that distinct advantage of convenience. But what do these digital filters do and how do I do it?
I shoot Nikon almost exclusively, though the setup options are going to be there for almost any digital camera today. With Nikon cameras, you go into the Shooting Menu>Set Picture Control>Monochrome. If you get to this point, you’ll already be shooting in black and white, but if you make one more click, you’ll be presented with a deeper menu, and that’s where the gold is.
So you go one more, and you will see menu options for **Sharpening, Contrast, Brightness, Filter Effects,**and Toning, and all of this is for your B&W settings. What you’ll be most concerned about should be Contrast, but more so Filter Effects and Toning. I know it can look intimidating but there’s no need for it to be, as all the filters mean is that whichever you select, the camera will lighten the tone of that particular color, and make the color opposite on the color wheel darker. Case-in-point was mentioned above, where if you use a red filter, the reds in skin tones and so on will be lighter, and the blues deeper. I use this constantly for outdoor portraits and swimwear. Here are examples of differences you’ll see with filters:"
My desire/need for a Monochrom has likely vanished.
My D780 is now set for Monochrom.
For a starter, the red electronic filter is now turned on.
I need to take a test photo, to see what happens, and then go look for a few scenes to test this out. Thank you for the “push” in this direction. I didn’t realize all this existed until just now.
Just don’t forget a red filter is only for darkening blues and lightening reds. You’ll need to change it for any other subject, especially foliage or floral subjects.
No actual filter. The EVF is a like a miniature TV screen.
Mark
