I GOT IT. After exchange my lens to my 2 Z Lenses (it works) and switching back i found THIS. The small yellow singn show that DXO are not sure which one is right. I have only the 70-300AF-P and never got the other. It works now !!!
Apparently, in PhotoLab 8.3, the latest version, DxO has renamed the feature again. It is now called Lens Sharpness Optimization.
Lens Softness Compensation was probably a more accurate name because it was a calibrated fix for inherent lens softness. However, I think that was a good decision because Lens Softness compensation probably confused a lot of users. This is the second time they have renamed this feature. It originally had the word sharpness in it, although I donât recall if it was identical to the current name.
Du kannst das Profil fĂŒr das âalteâ 70-300 löschen (und falls du damals Bilder damit gemacht hast erst bei Bedarf wieder laden). Dann klappt es mit dem âneuenâ AF-P Profil.
[ Habe seinerzeit das âalteâ 70-300 (prima bis auf den schwĂ€cheren Kontrast am langen Ende und den gemĂŒtlichen Fokus) durch ein F4/70-200 sowie ein extra F4/300 ersetzt. ⊠Da gab es das AF-P noch nicht. ]
Bis PL 5 kam DxOâs Lens Sharpness mit 0,00.
Seit PL6 steht Global standardmĂ€Ăig auf 1,00.
Das Problem ist die ĂberschĂ€rfung bei neuen Linsen, auch in Verbindung mit möglichen Artefakten durch DeepPrimeXD/2s, z.B. bei PortrĂ€ts. Am besten probierts du das aus.
Ich stelle Global dann auf < 1,00 und/oder reduziere die SchÀrfung in DPXD/2s (Force details) und/oder entrausche mit DeepPrime.
â PL8 hat eine âLupeâ bekommen, die hervorragend mit virtuellen Kopien zusammenarbeitet. Sowohl M wie VC werden gecacht ⊠und so kannst du direkt und ohne Rechenzeit vergleichen, falls es nötig ist.
@mwsilvers ,
PL5 had an initial value of 0,50,50 like in your screenshot. All the others had an initial value of 1,50,50.
I donât know what the difference is.
This was discussed at length when the change was made. DxO indicated it more accurately represents the optimum lens correction. Some users, like me, prefer the new default, and others believe the new default of 1 over sharpens images. Some users have also indicated the previous default of 0 also over sharpened images
Whether it over sharpens or is just right may depend on our preferences and expectations. It is not dissimilar to the arguments over the DeepPRIME and DeepPRIME XD2s default settings. When it comes to setting default values in software, there is no pleasing everyone. Our eyes are the final arbitrator of what settings are best for each of us.
Just to add to what @Wolfgang said above (e.g. about denoise). Sharpness perception depends not only on Lens Sharpness/Softness setting, but also on overall brightness/tones and Microcontrast/Fine-Contrast/ClearVision settings. For portraits I sometimes go down with Microcontrast, even as low as -50 if the bokeh is too busy, and then look for fine-contrast and sharpness settings to get more acuity in other parts of the image, keeping an eye for halos. Sometimes I end up using some fine-contrast sliders at positive values and other being negative. Perhaps using Local Adjustments could also help in finding good subject/bokeh balance (not much experience with that here). For some lenses and image parts, check if Chromatic Aberration settings impact sharpness of your picture (this might be important especially with some low-end lenses). For any comparisons, use at least 75% magnification, or even better the Loupe tool (or just the output jpeg).
In my defaults I use LS Global setting +0.5 for landscapes, 0.0 for standard, -1.0 for close portraits, having sometimes to adapt individually per photo or per lens. Match the setting to your taste, thereâs no universal âgoodâ value (some like it hot). For some lenses and photos it might be hard to see the difference, e.g. Z135mm/1.8S rarely requires any optical corrections. Never used the classic Unsharp Mask, unless I wanted halos for special effects.
To be honest, I didnât find yet photos, where LS Bokeh or Details settings would make a decisive difference â perhaps I didnât try often enough. But for most of my work I have time for only about one minute editing per photo, so I donât have too much experience with careful editing. Only for best photos, or to experiment, trying to find new ways, I may edit them for an hour or even more, spanned over several days.