Processing "dull", gray-sky images in PhotoLab 5

Exiftool. Has been mentioned many times.
There’re more differences between the two D750 files but I don’t know how to interpret them.
I’m still wondering why PL deals with file #2 as being a non raw file: no color temperature and no denoising. Maybe somebody from the staff can give us a hint?


Just opened PL again and now it’s right.


I had checked those test files from Mike, but no problem to open them, to colour correct …

That looks like a very well explained article. It will be interesting to see what a difference it makes.

Due to my heavy involvement in reading and writing metadata for creating my own keywording app, I use ExifTool written by the amazing Phil Harvey (download link).

It is a command line tool so you would need to use Terminal and learn what commands to type, so it’s not a particularly easy thing to get to grips with. If you do want to have a go, once it is installed, you can type…

cd theDirectoryWhereYouKeepYour File (Enter)
exiftool -G  -nikon:all yourfilename.NEF

…which will give you a list of all the metadata written by Nikon

If you don’t fancy messing around with the command line, it could be easier to pop the file here :slightly_smiling_face:

to quote an important snippet from the linked article

Fine tuning settings are specific to the lens/camera combination and once you tune a lens, the camera saves the setting, which it reverts to anytime you mount that lens.

specific means → per camera

Using two D750 with a couple of AF-S lenses, I’ve done that per camera.

[ To ‘synchronize’ the cams (except this individual cam-lens-adjustment !) I use → My Menu → save settings, insert the card in the other cam and load the settings from the card. ]

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If you make it

exiftool -G -nikon:all yourfilename.NEF > /Users/MIKE/Desktop/filename.txt

you’ll get output in a file on your desktop. Make sure to replace the bold text with your actual account name and a filename you like.

Hint: You can start to type e.g. “/Use” and press the tab key and terminal will complement your entry to “/Users”

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I’ve created a quick action (Mac only) that extracts metadata from files and writes them to text files. It works as designed. If someone (@Joanna hint hint) can improve it and post it here, all the better…
List (118.7 KB)

How to prepare:

  1. download the file and unzip it
  2. open it with Automator (double-click should do it)
  3. Convert it to quick action and give it a name you like


  • exiftool installed in /usr/local/bin/

How to use (also see screenshots below):

  1. select a folder with a few image files (don’t start with thousands of images!)
  2. ctrl-click on the folder icon and select the quick action
    → for each source-file, a file containing (all) tags and values is created


  • Use at your own risk and your risk alone
  • Delivered as-is and works as designed
  • Feel free to modify and improve it


For the window users ExifToolGUI
I downloaded it some years ago but it didn’t work well with win10. But not long ago I saw a print screen of that program and downloaded it. It’s still working.


yes – and simply put it in the root folder

This is the wrong approach, @mikemyers . As Wolfang pointed out, AF fineadjustment is between one lens and one body.

  • Same body, different lens = different AF adjustment value.
  • Same lens, different body = different AF adjustment value.
    If you want to play with this, be prepared to spend a lot of time for not that much improvement. It’s opening a can of worms. Why?
  1. DSLR Phase AF is always done indirectly. There’s a mirror behind the main mirror, directing the light to an AF module which at the very best is well aligned and true and parallel to the sensor. If the module is not aligned in the tiniest tolerances, there will only a small amount of AF points be able to catch focus precisely. I had that once in a D810 or D850: Using the outer left AF point had backfocus, the outer right had frontfocus. If it was not the lens which could have been decenterred.
  2. Not only is the body/lens combination unique to the AF fineadjustment - this is also valid for only the same distance you were (hopefully) testing the AF.
  3. To make things more complicated: With zoom lenses there’s only one focal length giving the precise result.
  4. With certain lenses from 3rd party manufacturers like Sigma and Tamron you can adjust the lens instead of the AF of the camera, at more than one focus distance and for more than one focal length (for zooms). But trying to find out the precise settings for 4 distances at 4 focal lengths is time consuming. And afterwards running a reliability test to find out if the AF is ALWAYS precise spot on is usually disappointing.

But don’t worry, all this is splitting hairs. Necessary for rather fast lenses like 200/2 ,135/1.8, 105/1.4 and so on to use these lenses with wide open aperture. Not so necessary for people using f/8 or smaller apertures as there’s more leeway for front- and backfocus.

… or manual focus to ‘infinity’, which is not … (no more hardstop)
Who Killed Infinity Focus? | B&H Explora@mikemyers

( just wonder, as with f10 that shouldn’t be a problem )


or save time and get an hybrid camera :wink:

…to know live view for such tests - and focus on the same thing :wink:

Exiftool is now installed. I’m not sure if I want to start working with this today. I’m not exactly in the right mood to pretend I’m a software engineer. The last time I used things like ‘terminal’ was a lifetime ago. Nowadays I feel more like an ordinary “user”.

Maybe I should simply restore both cameras to “restore factory settings” and start over again. Or put both of them back in my drawer for a while, and use my Df, but on the other hand, after all these years, maybe I should restore it to factory settings too?

Regarding my D750 cameras, maybe over this coming weekend, one at a time, I will go ahead and restore them to factory settings, the follow the steps in this video, which is what I did two or three years ago to set up my first 750:
Settings for my D750

@Wolfgang , thank you. I sort of assumed that, as each lens may need its own correction, but I’ve been hoping I could leave the setting at zero.

Gosh, you just saved me a huge amount of time. I wasn’t aware of that, but I never had a reason to even look for it before. Thank you.

You’re trying (and succeeding) to make this easy for me to do.

Since I have never heard of, let alone used, “AF fine adjustment”, why would it be set to “2” and not “0”. The previous owner might have done that, but I don’t he has or uses the Nikon 50mm lens. Of course, the repair shop may have done it, but they didn’t have my lens when they did the repair. I can take one photo the way it is now, set to “0”, then two more at plus and minus 2, and then review the results, which would be three test shots taken with the lens wide open, f/1.8 so as to minimize the depth of field. You agree?

No. Sorry. :confused: + or - 2 is within the range of “random hit”.

These are 20 shots. First problem with them: 1/60 sec with a D800 is asking for troubles because of shutter shock. Didn’t know that effect before 2014, the D800 opened my eyes. Therefore the recipe “FF body with a lot of MP” is simply not necessarily improving clarity or amount of details, it’s just multiplying the reasons to not get what you want to see.

You see the spread of the AF results? If you try to get statistically better results, you need more than only one shot, you need a very sturdy tripod and you need a focus target otherwise your output is not valid. I’d suggest to leave it, the worms in this can can make you feel rather insecure about focus. But it’s not your insecurity, it is the flawed concept of indirect focusing. Ask Joanna why she’s not using a mirror to focus her 4 × 5" field camera… ok, bad analogy. If you want precise focus: use LiveView (and a tripod) for close objects. “Close” can be 10 m with a 300 mm lens… or 20 cm with a 14 mm lens, to just pick any number.

@mikemyers, when you’ve reset your cameras, don’t forget to set your copyright notice to 2022 :wink:

BTW, Nikon #1 has a shutter count of 11’000, the other has about 241’000, wow.

Done - all my Nikons and the M10 have copyright 2022. A quarter of a million photos on my second 750? Wow is right.

Sounds good for now. It’s already re-set to zero. I will take a photo of the building across from mine with each D750, using the same 50mm f/1.8 lens.

“insecure”??? I’m currently feeling VERY insecure, but having spent a good bit of time on “circle of confusion”, I mostly remember now what I used to know a lifetime ago.

Take those airy disks and see how good they really are. Aerodynamically. :laughing:

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??? I’m lost, but that’s not unusual.

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Going back to the wrong exposure of #2. That can be due a not well working diaphragm or a not well working shutter.
I my thoughts a not well working diaphragm would cause an over exposure. Seen the shuttercount the problem could be the shutter.
You didn’t test it yet?