Preferred screen calibration tools?

With PL7, what are folks current experiences and preferences with calibration tools; scanners, software, cal/color cards, etc.

Thanks

for a start a proper spectroradiometer capable of 1nm resolution to get data for a custom ccss / edr file

Hi Sparky2006,

For calibration of my Lenovo G27Q-20 monitor, I am using my good old ColorMunki Display (now called Calibrite ColorChecker Display) unfortunately I canā€™t use my ColorChecker Passport Video, but as long you set your white balacne in camera before you shoot, then you should be home safe.

I use datacolor SpyderX Pro and am quite happy with it. I recently used a borrowed X-Rite i1Display Pro and it seems better (but more expensive). I have a Benq monitor and use their calibration software.

I used Colormunki until they offered an update that disabled it. I now have a Calibrite Color Checker Display that works well, but had initial problems that were solved by their support team. Just an aside, I always felt the calibrated display looked a little yellow and I tweaked the display to fix it. Then I was diagnosed with cataracts. Cataracts were removed and the calibrated display looks fine.

Cataracts add a yellow cast, so greens look blue and blues look green. Iā€™ve had to re-edit some pre-surgical landscapes. I had some funny looking skies and lawns.

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Cataracts are a problem I know, but as people age there eyes change. My wife has good vision but we clearly see colours slighly differently after I had both eyes done. Our optician says its normal for every ones eyes to differ and change as they age.

Iā€™ve new lenses in my eye. When the first one was done a white ordinary paper looked white with the one eye and smookey,yellow, with the other eye.
Now both eyes are done and I donā€™t know again what the right color is :blush:

Thereā€™s also this dress from a view years ago The dress - Wikipedia

George

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Its why professional users of colour, film, movie or whatever use precise tools to get the same colour at all stages. There is the British Standard Colour, Pantone and other standards in the world. Movie lenses are colour matched to prevent slight shifts as shots are done with more than one camera at a time. (As an aside a friend used to be a film camera operator all their cameras and lenses were stripped down and rebuilt and calibrated before each new job all to get uniform results every time.) all this is done to reduce the problem of differing vision between different people.

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I use an X-rite i1 Display Pro because when it is used in conjunction with Dellā€™s version of itā€™s associated software the calibration can be written into the hardware of me Dell monitor. If the software is to be believed then that means my monitor covers the full Adobe RGB gamut.

I use DisplayCal software on both Spyder and IOne colorimeters.

X-Riteā€™s calibration software does odd things in the background that cranks up cpu load and the fans .
The issue is known and a fix is provided, but itā€™s not working reliably.

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For a long time I used to use a lightweight XRite i1 Display Pro*) to calibrate the monitor, but unfortunately the rubberized parts now have a sticky smear.

Since I started printing, I have been using the XRite Color Munki Photo for paper profiling (Color Munki Software), which has been supported by XRite i1 Studio Software (monitor, projector, printer, scanner) for some time now.

An Eizo CG2730 with a built-in calibration finger has been running here since 2018 (self-calibration set to 200 hours of use).


*) branded for my former Quato 262ex / iColor Display 3.x

Off topic but nice to te-ll.
I own the Nikon AF-S 28-70 f2.8D IF ED and its bigger brother the AF-S 80-200 f2.8. They where used to shoot a Jason Bourne movie, I think the Bourne Ultimatum. That movie is shot mostly with handheld.

George

the author of ArgyllCMS says

Ā« Reply #17 on: July 11, 2020, 09:35:24 pm Ā»

Yep - rubberised finishes inevitably end up taking in water vapour, and going sticky.

I took my instruments completely apart (i1Display, i1Pro2), and soaking the coated parts in Methylated Spirits for a while (AKA Denatured alcohol), until the rubber wrinkled up, and wiped it off and then completely cleaned the plastic surfaces.

Of course, taking the instruments apart enough to do this is something of an exercise (removing and replacing the transparent sticker that covers the zebra stripe being the most awkward). You can of course attempt to do this cleaning without complete disassembly, but it becomes tricky to prevent the dissolved gunk going into places it shouldnā€™t.

Overall, an incredibly poor decision by X-Rite to use such finishes. I guess they werenā€™t aware of the problem at the time, even though it was a known issue with this type of finish.

so a concentrated >= 90%, better >=95% ethanol

I take it you went on a keep fit class to lug them about

Only the 28-70.

George

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Thanks for the reminder ā€“ Isoprop did it for the most part
(whiping off with soaked paper and an old cloth).

Iā€™m using an X-Rite i1Display Pro to calibrate a 32" BenQ monitor (LUT built into monitor). It works fine. Iā€™d previously been using a different X-Rite colorimiter (same functionality as the i1 DP Pro) but as BenQ had licensed their calibration software from X-Rite, it refused to work with that model.
TL;DR: if youā€™re looking to calibrate a monitor that has LUTs onboard, check their software, be sure to get one on their ā€œworks withā€ list.

who says so ? BenQ self-verification ? if so - it like asking thiefs to police themselves

it works fine only if you run a verification test using a 3rd party software ( like DisplayCAL gui for ArgyllCMS) with way-way more patches ( Argyll can do 1-2 magnitudes more patches to show you the real quality vs PME or PMU from BenQ ) that BenQ tries to limit people to ( and then use a proper .CCSS/.EDR for BenQ panel created by a proper spectroradiometer / because Colorimeter being a wide-band device needs to know panel spectral emissions data to be able to map ā€œRGBā€ data its wideband filters deliver to actual colorsā€¦ / - which they, BenQ, themselves to do not offer spectral data for use in PME or PMU, if you go there, in their installed folders, you will see 10-15 years old data that X-Rite supplies with SDK ā€“ so for example for SW270C PMU from BenQ is set to use ā€œRGBLEDFamily_07Feb11.edrā€ /ā€¦ you can try use one for your BenQ model from this file = https://displaycalibrations.com/ColourSpace/ColorChecker-i1D3%20Spectral%20CVS%20Files%20(24%20October%202023).zip?_sm_nck=1 ā€¦ CSV ā†’ CCSS ā†’ EDR ā†’ replace whatever EDR is used by PMU by renaming newly created EDR accordingly and replacing the one in PMU directory )

PS: if you ask why not i1Pro* (1,2,3) consumer level ( ā€œaffordableā€ price range ) spectrophotometer ? because itā€™s optical resolution guaranteed by X-Rite is 10nm - so it is still too wide-band for narrow spectral spikes in many modern LCD, etc panels ā€¦ what about HiRes ā€œ3.3nmā€ mode that might be enabled by some software on many i1Pro* models for emissive measurements ? its precision is not guaranteed by X-Rite ( thatā€™s why they themselves not competing with 10+ times more expensive spectroradiometers w/ i1Pro* devices, as they only reliably deliver 10nm out = The i1pro Hi Res. Mode )ā€¦ a min acceptable optical resolution from a spectro-radiometer to measure modern panels is 4-5nmā€¦ 1-2 nm is the ideal resolution ( that class of devices are used for factory calibrations for monitors that indeed are individually calibrated = like this device = CS-2000 Spectroradiometer | Konica Minolta Sensing ā€¦ i1Pro* = " 10nm resolution indicates a FWHM (Full width at half maximum) of about 25nm" and ā€œat 3.3nm resolution reveals that the optical limit seems to be about 15nmā€ - while CS-2000 for example is 5nm FWHM guaranteed and calibrated for )

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Iā€™ve had a number of devices with rubberized finishes go sticky on me (not colorimeters, but hand and power tools. WD40 wiped on, left on for a bit, then wiped off seemed to also remove the stickiness. No idea if this would work here - and I have plenty of high-percent isopropyl, so Iā€™ll try that next time. Using WD40 was more a matter of ā€˜thatā€™s what I had in the shop - and it worked.ā€™
Just adding a data pointā€¦