I thought B&W emphasised the structural / vaulted nature of the tree canopy, vaguely in keeping with the Biome roof in the background.
It’s the 4th of July holiday in the USA, meaning most people have a long weekend of free time. It’s also well into the 90 degree (Fahrenheit) temperature range, dampening my desire to go to the shooting range - never mind one of my friends telling me I’m safer if I stay off the roads until tomorrow, when the 4th of July party ends, and the party world returns to “normal”.
Having lots of free time over the past few days, I decided I would check out Google and see what is suggested for viewing about DxO Photolab. I only watched two videos, got discouraged, and went to sleep. The first one was of a landscape, and the fellow making the video ignored the original scene, and became a painter, adding colors to make the image closer to what he thought it should look like. I never watched it until the end. The second one (last night) started with a supposedly “ugly” photo of a giraffe, and step by step made it “better/worse”. I preferred the original version to what he did. He could have just made the image a little lighter and be done with it. He thought it was so cool that he could go through the bazillion pre-sets to make it pretty, and he finally settled on a tool to make the entire image orange.
How to Edit your Photos with DxO PhotoLab 6 Elite - YouTube
Sadly, I realize now I was just as bad, or worse, when I started - I thought all I needed to do was blast the image with ClearView and stop. This was before Joanna, Wolfgang, and the rest of you told me to view the image full size, and see how bad I was making it.
Only one internet person was showing how to properly use PhotoLab - PhotoJoseph, in his Webinars. One by one, I tried to emulate him, but every time I posted, I got tons of feedback here of all the things I was still doing incorrectly.
Maybe nothing has changed - most of the time when I post an image, I get constructive criticism, convincing me that my “finished” image wasn’t. I was honestly thinking that it might be forever before I stopped making mistakes - but there were always new mistakes to be made. But I know I’m improving.
One other thing that has changed, is I used to capture 30 to 50 images I “liked” in one day, out of perhaps 100 or more total. It has gotten down to 5 images per day, and lately I seem to be selecting one (or maybe two) images. I no longer come home with hundreds of images unless I’m shooting in burst mode, and my memory card usually has 25 or so images per day, which gets cut down to five or less while ingesting the images using Photo Mechanic. I used to go through my images in Adobe Lightroom, editing one after another. No more. Now I look at all the thumbnails at the bottom, and select just one or two of them to process. In the time it used to take me to finish perhaps 25 images, now it’s just as much time, to process a single image.
It’s also a puzzle to decide which camera to take with me. The choice is now D780, a perfect solution most of the time, or the Df, a less ideal solution in many ways, but a much better solution in others, my Leica (a whole different style of photography for me), and briefly my D3, now retired (adequate, but the D780 and Df are much better.
When the temperature is well up in the 90’s in Miami, the Df with my tiny 28-70 lens is SO MUCH more comfortable than my heavier D780 with the heavy and huge 24-120.
Something I miss in this forum, is how many people used to post an image, and describe how they made it so good using the tools in PhotoLab. Better yet, when their .dop file was posted here, I could see for myself exactly how they created it. …I may never be able to create images as well as some of you, but what I do create is improved over time by what I learn here.
I left my home early this morning, planning on taking some photos at the nearby marina. First, I got stopped by an unusual view looking out the front windows of my building lobby. After capturing what I wanted, I walked close to Biscayne Bay, and saw this fellow with his young daughter enjoying the fresh air and a shady spot. Then I also saw this pair of iguanas, moving towards them. Mr. iguana had it full attention on showing off for his female friend, while both continued to move to where the young girl was, with her full attention on the iguanas. I followed, not getting too close - the camera was focused on the iguanas, but I was watching the expression on the kid. So, the papa was watching his daughter, who was watching the two lizards, as I was watching both the iguanas, but mostly the kid, as I slowly got closer. This is the best photo - the iguanas continued onto the grass in the background, and I left to wander down to the marina - and after that, shopping for my dinner.
Camera was the Df, because it is rapidly becoming my favorite walkabout camera, with the 24-70 equally small and light. Joanna, I’m sure you wouldn’t want me to use the tiny bit of ClearView that I did, but I liked the result. Everything is in a big circle, the dad, the kid, the baby carriage, and the two iguanas, surrounding the large white lamp. This was completely unexpected - and not the image I planned on capturing, but over several minutes I kept seeing how I could capture a fascinating scene, thanks to the young girl. If I see them again, I will send them the photo.
DF1_3280 | 2023-07-04.nef (34.1 MB)
DF1_3280 | 2023-07-04.nef.dop (19.0 KB)
This photo was captured before I ever walked out of my building this morning - just looked out, and there it was. First image I captured today. It stopped me in my tracks, and I just had to capture it. Used the Df with 24-70, and zooming as I watched the viewfinder until I liked what I saw. Technically, it’s a single exposure. Since I was just planning a “walkabout” until I reached the marina, I left the Df in auto-ISO mode, and just checked the exposure before capturing the image - changing things if I didn’t like what the camera was about to do.
I enjoy capturing images like this, that aren’t what they seem to be.
I also got the images I set out to take, at the marina, but I enjoy these first two images a lot more.
DF1_3264 | 2023-07-04.nef (33.8 MB)
DF1_3264 | 2023-07-04.nef.dop (14.8 KB)
Maybe tonight I’ll work on one of the marina photos, but none of them “excited” me. I tried to do the best I could, but my heart wasn’t in it.
I intended to finish with the computer, and work on the marina photos tonight, but got impatient. I only kept my 7 best marina photos - the others didn’t look interesting, or I messed up. This image was focused in the foreground, allowing the background to get softer. I kept moving every which way until I got a composition I liked, and then waited until the flag was more recognizable, today being July 4th and all. I increased the blue in the sky just slightly, and played with the clouds until they looked nice. No cropping - all of that was done in the viewfinder. I don’t think I did very much - but when I use the COMPARE tool, I’m amazed at the difference. I’ve got several similar photos, but this is the only one that isn’t “boring” to me. I’ve also got photos of giant zillion-dollar yachts, it’s amazing what can be done with “fiberglass”, but the only yachts that excite me are made with wood.
After this photo, I headed off to the food store, to get tonight’s dinner. The temperature was on its way up into the 90’s, and my interest in photography is inversely proportional to the temperature.
DF1_3311 | 2023-07-04.nef (33.8 MB)
DF1_3311 | 2023-07-04.nef.dop (14.6 KB)
Final photo for today - my 4th of July 2023 Fireworks photo. I was definitely going to use the D780, but while my ML-13 Remote Controller worked fine on my D750, it’s incompatible with my D780. So, I figured I’d use a cable release, but the D780 doesn’t accept a mechanical cable release, only an electronic one that plugs into one of the ports on the camera. I had no idea I would ever need one - I’m guess I’m the dumb guy who assumes things will work “because they used to”. The D3 was out, as was my Leica (no way to put on a long lens). So, it came down to my Df, with 16 megapixels on a wonderful sensor. For the lens, I didn’t like the idea of all that weight hanging over the front of my Df, so I used my 80-200 which mounts on my tripod, and the Df mounts to the lens. Everything seemed rock solid, and I turned off all the lights in my condo, and had a tiny flashlight in case I needed it. Focus, aim, everything was set up 45 minutes before the show. Aperture started at f/8 but I turned it down to f/10. ISO was fixed at 100. The cable release pointed upwards, then made an arc, and went downwards, so it shouldn’t disturb the camera. My test shots confirmed everything was good.
I know Joanna once again is going to look at the squiggly red line at the right, in the middle, showing the camera was shaking, but I checked that out earlier - it really is “squiggly” as shown.
Then I noticed that some, but not all, the paths for the fireworks were “squiggly”, but I’ve decided that is because the path really was squiggly for most of them. I never realized that before.
I started with 80 or so images, and kept removing ones that were poor, then marginal, then not photogenic, and finally ones that didn’t bring out the beauty of the fireworks. That left just one image, which I’ll post below.
I flat out love the way PhotoLab brought back the details in the buildings, the smoke in the sky, and the brilliant colors. Since I was well over a mile away, I expected hear the booms, but barely did - but I was concentrating so hard on the exposure timing, I didn’t notice much else. I’d guess they were 1/2 second, plus or minus a little, but Photo Lab took care of the image. Too long, or too short, and the fireworks looked ugly. That also affected the exposure.
I’m sure I’ll hear about mistakes I made, but right now I couldn’t be happier. The red, white, and blue colors in the top burst fits the occasion, and matches the USA flag!
DF1_3447 | 2023-07-04.nef (33.2 MB)
DF1_3447 | 2023-07-04.nef.dop (15.4 KB)
1 Like
Maybe you should invest more money in a better lens and/or tripod.
George
The tripod I used is the one recommended by Joanna.
The lens was a Nikon 80-200, because it had a mount so it could be attached directly to the tripod.
It is supposed to be one of Nikon’s better lenses.
Exposure was f/8 and 1/30th which is not a good choice for a 200mm image.
The fireworks image was probably around 1/2 second or so.
Here’s my test shot, to check the coverage, f/8 and 1/30th:
DF1_3324 | 2023-07-04.nef (33.2 MB)
DF1_3324 | 2023-07-04.nef.dop (14.7 KB)
Thanks for the reply.
I suspect now that the 9th floor concrete balcony is not a rock stable shooting position. My test shot above was at 1/30th, on a tripod.
I just took another test shot, roughly the same zoom, but now 100 ISO, 1000th which should be more than fast enough, and f/4.5.
Focus was in the middle of the viewfinder. Used cable release.
DF1_3505 | 2023-07-05.nef (33.8 MB)
This is a blow-up from the test shot, but at 100% zoom:
My current thought is no more fireworks photos from my 9th floor balcony.
Next time I’ll shoot from ground level.
Perhaps the sound from the fireworks causes my balcony to “vibrate”?
I know what you mean - that is why I can set my aperture and shutter to what I prefer, and allow the camera to use auto-ISO to get me a good exposure based on those two settings. For my “walkabout” camera, whichever one it may be, I prefer auto-iso - either that, or, I need to figure out the exposure before taking the picture, by which time it might be too late to get the photo I wanted.
That’s the AF-S, you’ve the AF.
Don’t hide yourself behind @Joanna. Look at the light trails. You can see the camera shake in it. Especial in your first image: the bottom light umbrella is full of vibration, the upper exploded probably later and is more straight. You probably didn’t use exposure delay.
I don’t know to which image you refer but the image I reacted on was f/10 and 1.4s
George
See next article, the first page. The 2 diagrams show the vibration with and without mirror up.
http://markins.com/charlie/report4e6.pdf
See also the DF manual on page 256, D10.
George
Two quick thoughts.
Yes, I will read the link you posted - vibration caused by the mirror!!!
I never considered, or thought about this - but it is a perfect explanation.
Dumb… no, ignorant. Won’t ever happen again.
Easy to say that - yes, it all fits together, with the vibrations starting immediately, then dying away.
If I was smarter, I might have figured this out.
The comment about Joanna was a line that she pointed out that was “squiggly”, but which I later figured out by looking in the daytime.
This line is now obvious, but puzzled me for many weeks.
That squiggly line is explainable - but until I got your post, I couldn’t think of what might have caused the problem.
Back to the main issue, and a huge thank you for pointing it out so clearly.
I’ve got a lot more reading to do, starting right now.
For certain, the mirror will be locked up in the future.
Next time there is a fireworks display, I’ll have this sorted out, and I need to buy the proper cable release for the D780 too…
Nobody is perfect. 
Also take in account that the 80-200 lens is quit heavy. The tripod exists of 2 elements: the tripod and the header. The lens collar of Nikon is of bad quality. I don’t know of other brands.
That’s off course pure nonsens.
Take some test shots with exposure delay, by example the one with the Intercontinental Hotel on it. Text is a better reference for evaluate the sharpness.
Just have a look at the2 diagrams on the first page.
George
I viewed those images, and yes, it was obvious. Then I read the whole article. Then I checked out these two web pages from Nikon:
https://onlinemanual.nikonimglib.com/d850/en/09_release_mode_03.html
Based on what I read, the best solution for me, is to use Mirror Lock-Up Mode.
- Put camera in Mup mode
- Press shutter release to raise mirror
- Press shutter release again to capture image
- Repeat
Do this whole process over and over, for each image I want to capture.
By the time fireworks happens again in Miami (probably New Years) I will have bought the electronic cable for the D780, and I will use my newer and better Nikon 70-300 lens on the D780.
Something else I never knew about:
What is exposure delay mode? (using Nikon as an example) – frederikboving.
This will resolve two issues, vibration from the mirror, and any vibration from my hand or cable release.
I also called Nikon to ask about this. I was almost joking when I mentioned it’s a reason to buy a Z9, no mirror, and no shutter, and for other purposes, very high burst rates when/if desired.
Hopefully I didn’t screw up the three photos I posted before this one.
As far as I can tell, all three are “perfect”.
We discussed this some time ago. You should have been using the smallest aperture available (usually f/22) and a longer exposure - we previously discussed around 4-5 seconds.
There is no camera shake - take a close look at some of the street lights, which are perfectly round and apartment/office windows which are clearly rectangular with no ghosting.
You don’t need another remote control for your D780, or even mirror lock, you can use the Nikon Snapbridge app on your iPhone to connect to the D780 in wireless mode.
My version…
DF1_3447 | 2023-07-04.nef.dop (30,3 Ko)
Memory from about 5 years ago…
5 secs @ f/22 ISO 100 - multiple exposure of 5 shots.
I remembered that discussion, and had some notes “for next time”. I started out with longer exposures, but the fireworks “bursts” seemed to photograph better when the shutter was open for less time. Here is one of the early shots taken at f/10, ISO 100, and 2.7 seconds - so I caught the burst from when it started, until when it was “fizzling out”.
DF1_3347 | 2023-07-04.nef (33.2 MB)
My longer exposures didn’t look as “natural” as my shorter exposures.
After this, I re-positioned the camera, and zoomed a bit more, now that I knew where the bursts were going to be.
I noticed that the “city” was sharp and clear, and would be even more so after editing. I thought that was a good sign.
This leaves me rather puzzled - are the “squiggly” paths of the fireworks due to mirror vibration, or is that what the particles were really doing as they flew through the air? Some colors “squiggled” more than others - these were much less “squiggle”:
And some “squiggled” much more:
Thank you for the suggestion for Snapbridge - installing now.
To be continued.
Snapbridge didn’t connect - in my D780 Setup Menu with “Connect to a smart device” I get a "Pairing (Bluetooth) entry that is grayed out - it says Bluetooth of OFF. I have no idea how to turn it on. When I click on the entry, I got an error message. On the phone I see this:
I called Nikon, and one of the senior tech people spent a little under an hour with me. He told me they have been having problems with Snapbridge, an to wait a few weeks and try again.
My next fireworks display will be during New Years, so I’ve got lots of time to figure this out.
Take a look at the light trails of the fire work.
George
Mirror up is something else. You’ve to keep your finger on the button or press twice.
Exposure delay is when after pressing the button the mirror is upped, then the camera waits for some time and then the curtains open and close.
https://onlinemanual.nikonimglib.com/d780/en/14_menu_guide_05_d04.html
George
This is just the normal trajectory of a “cluster” which spins irregularly as it gets ejected.
Look at the cityscape behind and you will see there is no shake.