Milan - improvement requested

Hi all, few days ago I got a Milan in front of my lense.
PL8.5.0, FP7, VP5
Sony Alpha 77II, SAL 70400 G2,
ISO 250, 1/2000s, f5,6, focal length 400/600mm, size 6000x4000 (crop 2380x1586)

2025_04_17_Milan_5330.ARW.dop (20,2 KB)

2025_04_17_Milan_5330.ARW (23,7 MB)

Well knowing, long distance images plus the big crop is critical, however I would kindly ask the community, if there are any suggestions how to sharpen the bird and to reduce the halos utilizing DxO only. Don’t care on the background trees.
Many thanks in advance
HGF

My approach would be to try Topaz Photo AI. If that couldn’t sort it, I’d go back out and try to take a new photo.

1 Like

@zkarj , thank you very much for your fast response.

I don’t have Topaz and I don’t want to pay for it. This is why I asked for DxO only.

To take a new foto, what camera setting you would prefer? Have in mind, the Milan is in very high trees and I’m not a good climber. :wink:
Regards HGF


2025_04_17_Milan_5330.ARW.dop (9.9 KB)

All I could do.

George

Well, I did run it through Topaz Photo AI, which allowed me to better diagnose the problems you have.

  1. There is a weird ghosting around the edges of the bird, which looks a bit like a “fuzzy” or misty lens.
  2. I was unable to remove the blur, even in Topaz, which responded best to a motion blur treatment.
  3. You are cropping to only a quarter or less of the original size, with only 24Mpx, so a lot of this is down to a simple lack of pixels.
  4. If Topaz can’t cure it, you need to clean your lens and try again.

Screenshot of your image resized to 4x in Topaz…

@George , thank you for your response. You tried to use Microcontrast to sharpen the pixels, I tried using Fine Contrast. What would be the better choice?
You put Lens Sharpness Optimization to 1.00 what makes sense to me.
And you tried to optimize contrast utilizing the Tone Curve. I tried to achieve this by using the Spot Weighted Smart Lightning. What do you prefer?
Many thanks for your thoughts, HG

@Joanna , my lense is clean and it’s a G2 lense from Sony. It’s an older one but with very good ratings. I guess you are right, I’ve reached the physical limitations of cropping a 24 MB pixel. Topaz can do a lot on it, as we can see in your copy. I’ll try to come closer to the objects (Milans). Will see… thank you very much for your response :grinning: regards HG

Looks like motion blur to me. Besides shutter speed - inadequate stabilization?

1 Like

From the PLv8.5 help text (Click on the ‘?’)

Since you are cropping the image, I suggest trying NR mode = DeepPRIME XD … for “Xtra Detail”.

How about the sensor, any chance there’s any smear on it,

I try to keep sensor and mirror ( Alpha 77II has a translucent mirror) always clean. Nevertheless, good idea, I’ll clean all critical points once more and try to catch the Milan once more. Maybe this will eliminate the halos.

Means, I need to play with both sliders to check what is bringing the best result?

Will check, thank you very much for this hint.

Just checked it with the DP XD2s… didn’t really help here. There’s motion blur or something else overlaying the more or less sharp parts… and ruining your shot. :man_shrugging:

Cam was mounted on monopod and stabilizer (for Sony build in the body) was enabled. Shutter speed 1/2000 should be fast enough?

Thank you for your response. The lense I used was a zoom 70-400mm. I’ve learned, min and max values could be critical. I’ll try to repeat the shot with 380 mm. (Hopeful the Milan is patient with me :wink:)

1 Like

On an a 77, that lens is equivalent to 105-600mm. With a monopod any movement from pressing the shutter would be exaggerated and I suspect giving the same effect as you can see in his left (port) wing. I had an a 77 with a 75 – 300mm which I still have, so I know the problems you can have. For myself, I found tucking my elbows tightly into my sides and swinging my body with the direction of the moving object. In most cases I got away with it. I no longer use my monopod.

I don’t have fine contrast.

Try shooting a static subject wit 400mm on a tripod and look at the quality. It could be the lens too. Use about the same distance.

George

1 Like

IIRC you only get Fine Contrast if you have Film Pack installed beside PhotoLab.

Then it’s about time you got it. It makes so much difference to what you can do

I did some exercises with min max values. The issue is not focal length but aperture. Min aperture for SAL70400 is 5.6 what is causing halos in a long distance. By increasing aperture halos are decreasing. Best result in this particular setup I got with aperture of 10 by 400mm! Reference function in DxO was really useful doing these comparisons.

1 Like