Hi all, few days ago I got a Milan in front of my lense.
PL8.5.0, FP7, VP5
Sony Alpha 77II, SAL 70400 G2,
ISO 250, 1/2000s, f5,6, focal length 400/600mm, size 6000x4000 (crop 2380x1586)
Well knowing, long distance images plus the big crop is critical, however I would kindly ask the community, if there are any suggestions how to sharpen the bird and to reduce the halos utilizing DxO only. Don’t care on the background trees.
Many thanks in advance
HGF
@George , thank you for your response. You tried to use Microcontrast to sharpen the pixels, I tried using Fine Contrast. What would be the better choice?
You put Lens Sharpness Optimization to 1.00 what makes sense to me.
And you tried to optimize contrast utilizing the Tone Curve. I tried to achieve this by using the Spot Weighted Smart Lightning. What do you prefer?
Many thanks for your thoughts, HG
@Joanna , my lense is clean and it’s a G2 lense from Sony. It’s an older one but with very good ratings. I guess you are right, I’ve reached the physical limitations of cropping a 24 MB pixel. Topaz can do a lot on it, as we can see in your copy. I’ll try to come closer to the objects (Milans). Will see… thank you very much for your response regards HG
I try to keep sensor and mirror ( Alpha 77II has a translucent mirror) always clean. Nevertheless, good idea, I’ll clean all critical points once more and try to catch the Milan once more. Maybe this will eliminate the halos.
Just checked it with the DP XD2s… didn’t really help here. There’s motion blur or something else overlaying the more or less sharp parts… and ruining your shot.
Thank you for your response. The lense I used was a zoom 70-400mm. I’ve learned, min and max values could be critical. I’ll try to repeat the shot with 380 mm. (Hopeful the Milan is patient with me )
On an a 77, that lens is equivalent to 105-600mm. With a monopod any movement from pressing the shutter would be exaggerated and I suspect giving the same effect as you can see in his left (port) wing. I had an a 77 with a 75 – 300mm which I still have, so I know the problems you can have. For myself, I found tucking my elbows tightly into my sides and swinging my body with the direction of the moving object. In most cases I got away with it. I no longer use my monopod.
I did some exercises with min max values. The issue is not focal length but aperture. Min aperture for SAL70400 is 5.6 what is causing halos in a long distance. By increasing aperture halos are decreasing. Best result in this particular setup I got with aperture of 10 by 400mm! Reference function in DxO was really useful doing these comparisons.