How can I get print colors to match colors on monitor more closely?

DxO PhotoLab
1

Hi,

I am using PL8 on Windows, and have an ACER XV320QU and am using an Epson ET-3850 printer, and I am printing via DXO PL8, and am having a lot of difficulty trying to get the color of the prints that I have been making come even close to what I see on the monitor. The paper I am using is mostly Epson Glossy (from Costco), but I have some paper from Red River that I am seeing the same thing.

The pictures that I am printing are mostly of surfing, and the main difference I am seeing is that, for example, the water is kind greenish, but when I print, the water is blue.

I’ve tried calibrating the monitor with the built in calibration app in Windows 10, but that hasn’t helped (the monitor shows as almost whitish when I switch it to the “calibrated” profile.

I am considering maybe trying one of the calibration tools like Spyder, but I am kind of unclear how those work. I know that you use them with the monitor to create a profile, but I’m kind unclear about how that helps me as that profile doesn’t take either the printer, or the paper, that I am using to print?

Anyway, sorry to kind of ramble, but I’ve been trying this for a while (and wasting a ton on print paper), and I am hoping someone might have some ideas?

Thanks,
Jim

P.S. I’ve tried the settings in the Windows print configuration that is mentioned in this thread I found and that didn’t change anything: What should color profile be set to when printing? - #8 by DanDp

EDIT 1: Also, FYI, I have tested the printer and the testing looks all right… no clogged heads, etc.

2

I suggest you read (and then re-read :grin: ) this tutorial:
https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/color-management-printing.htm

Yes, do that.

You then need to set the profile such a device generates as the profile for your monitor. You do that via ‘Color Management’ in the Control Panel (even in Win 11)

The device should also automatically adjust the contrast and brightness of your monitor. This important because the default brightness of just about every monitor on the planet is waaay to bright to allow colour matching to prints on paper.

When you come to print you must EITHER let your software handle colour management OR let the printer handle colour management. If you choose the former then you MUST turn OFF colour management within your printer settings.

1 Like
3

Hi,

Do you have any recommendations for calibration? I’ve been thinking about Calibrite Display Pro HL (with Calibrite Profiler). Would that be a good choice?

I am still unclear about something: So the above should generate the profile for my monitor, correct?

The thing that I am still confused about is what do I do with that profile generated by the calibration tool?

What I mean is I also have an ICC profile for the paper that I am using.

Or, are you saying that when I go through the monitor calibration process using the tool above, the monitor should then look close to what the printer should be outputting, somehow?

Sorry some of my questions may not make much sense, as I am still confused :frowning:

Jim

EDIT 1: I think I am confused about is something like “What is the ‘workflow’ when using the calibration tool, from calibration of the monitor through printing using DXO PL8 and my ET-3850 printer and xxx paper?”

4

Have you read the tutorial I pointed to?

I have an X-Rite device, it’s several years old but it does the job. I have no knowledge of what’s available today.

The profile that’s generated by the device will end up in the correct folder and it might even be automatically be associated with your monitor but you should check that in the Color Management applet in the Windows Control Panel (even in Win 11 that feature is in the Control Panel, not Settings).

The profile will ensure your monitor is displaying accurate colours. To get matching colours out of your printer requires you to select the correct paper type, which should ensure the correct paper profile is used. I can’t give you exact instructions for how to do that in PL because I never print from PL (I prefer the output I get using Affinity Photo).

However, one of the options in the PL print dialog will be to either let PL control colour management or let the printer control colour management. If you choose the former you must also turn off colour management in your printer settings.

I’ll end where I started, did you read the tutorial I linked to?

5

I did read through the tutorial (and now re-read), but it was a lot, and there was a lot that I didn’t understand fully. I will go through again later, but FYI, from what I read, X-rite is now selling through that “Calibrite” company, I think.

Thanks for your patience.!

Jim

1 Like
6

I would suggest that you buy Calibrite (I think it is called I1 studio) the reason I suggest this one is that you can calibrate your monitor and also calibrate your printer. I myself use the colour monkey, which was the previous version. My prints matched the colours of the monitor perfectly. My monitor is just perceptibly brighter then the print. I could lower the brightness slightly but I didn’t think it worth it as the colours match. It might be worth checking if any of the other Calibrite items are capable of calibrating the printer as well. As for me I have never found the paper manufacturers calibrations to be very accurate but you may find otherwise and a much cheaper way to try first.

7

All,

I think that I may’ve just found my problem :frowning: - I ran a Print Head Nozzle Check (I could have SWORN that I ran one earlier) and the yellow is missing :frowning: - I’m running some cleaning to see if I can get it unclogged.

I am starting to really hate the tank printers. I had one that I had to throw away a couple of years ago because the nozzles were clogged so bad that I couldn’t unclog them.

I was trying really hard to prevent that in this new one, printing test pages every week or so, but it looks like it still got clogged :frowning:

8

Prem,

The one that does both the monitor and printer profiles is the “colorchecker studio”, but it is more expensive, like $500+.

Jim

9

When you want to check the colors when printing use the soft proof button. That’s where it’s meant for. And off course your monitor needs to be calibrated.

George

10

All,

Thank goodness! After I ran the “power cleaning” test, then the nozzle check test again afterwards, I now have the yellow lines back again!!

And printing images look good again!

Thanks for all the responses!

Jim

11

Please allow me to state simply what I use.

I have Calibrite Display plus for the monitor.

It is very important that you set the luminance during calibration to only 80cd/m² and 5500°K. Turn off any automatic settings for the monitor, like brightness and automatic colour temperature adjustment. If not, you might as well not bother with profiling. I know this will make your monitor look duller than usual and there is a temptation to raise the brightness when not working on photos, but this temptation must be avoided.

The software will automatically save and locate the profile appropriately.

For printing, I use a Spyder Print.

In theory, I could use the Calibrite ColorChecker Studio for both functions but their targets use less patches and are not as precise as the Spyder ones.

The price difference between buying the Calibrite and Spyder combination (€349 + €259) and the Calibrite all in one (€599) is only €9. Personally, I would go for the combination.

Now, when it comes to printing, I have to say that I used to use an Epson SC-P600 and was constantly getting ink problems to the point that it was not economically viable to repair them. I had two printers which both died at around the 2 year mark and thanks to someone’s advice, I swapped to a Canon Pro-1000 and have never looked back. I never get blocked jets, even after leaving the printer inactive for over 3 months. I simply switch it on, wait for it to agitate the cartridges and print perfect output every time. Yes, it does take 12 cartridges but they are 80ml and last an incredible amount of time compared with the smaller 14ml cartridges and cost a lot less per ml.

Seriously, never use tank printers for photography, they are really only intended for office work.

Oh, and cheap paper will give you worse results than spending a bit more. I use Canson Baryta Photographic II. It gives virtually the same appearance as silver halide paper for B&W and a beautiful finish for colour. It is a “satin” finish, avoiding the excessive reflections of a glossy paper.

2 Likes
12

@ohaya

To find out if your printer and paper combination is working adequately
( regardless of your monitor settings ! ),

visit → https://www.northlight-images.co.uk/printer-test-images/

scroll down until →

Screen Shot 06-02-25 at 02.20 AM
Screen Shot 06-02-25 at 02.20 AM959×905 992 KB

and do yourself a favour to download and print it from PL.

IF the colors of your printout are OK (more or less… it also depends on the lighting),
then check the display on your monitor.

4 Likes
13

I’m pleased to see a reference to Northlight Images.
Keith Cooper has posted many articles and videos on achieving high quality prints with accurate colour matching, and his website is a valuable resource.

14

+1 on the Canon Pro1000 printer. A very solid and trustworthy printer!
Not sure about the qualities of the Acer XV320QU monitor for photography though.

15

Another vote from me for the Calibrite devices. The one I have is 10yrs old and still going strong. Unless your monitor has a built-in calibration device, trying to calibrate a monitor without a dedicated 3rd party hardware calibration device is simply giving yourself a hiding to nothing. The calibration software included with Windows and MacOS is only ueful for business use at best, it is definitely not adequate for photographic calibration (imo).

The responses from @Joanna and @Wolfgang offer strong, sound advice in my opinion (and experience of 20+ yrs working professionally as a photographer).

Final point. If you’re struggling to justify spending money on a calibration device, just think about how much money you may have already spent on your cameras, lenses, computer, monitor and printer (and any on-going cost of paper and ink on poor quality prints). You’ll probably find that the cost of a calibration device is less than 2-8% of what you’ve spent already. I can’t recommend getting one strongly enough.