While cropping you can’t rotate. What you wrote applies to levelling (Horizon tool).
Not sure how to understand it. If I wanted to change orientation, I would do it before using the cropping tool, just like 99+% people here. If you want to invert the cropping aspect ratio, say from 4x3 to 3x4, you can drag the corner accordingly to change the crop orientation (probably like in most of similar software).
It’s possible if you prepare a suitable preset. Ok, unprecise answer but for an unprecise request.
DeepPRIME algorithm requires unmanipulated data from CFA and it depends on CFA type. The algorithm assumes some noise model, which manipulated data does not abide to (jpeg, smartphones, some camera shooting options). For example, smartphone sensors have crosstalk problem, with their pixel size comparable with light wavelengths. Some glory details can be found in the Internet, particularly in several papers written by DxO, using quite involved maths. It’s getting into quantum-effects area, see also some remarks by Eric Fossum in dpreview “scientific” forum. Some demosaicking/denoising algorithms have performance of 1MPx/hour, so what we see available on the market is just a tip of an iceberg being researched.
Well, there is one when cropping. BTW, the thirds or golden ratio rules were derived as an approximation by observation (and “invention”) and they are not 100% correct, not even 80% I would say. Your sense of balance is more important, so better switch the grid off and judge for yourself - you’ll get less unbalanced pictures. Ok, some people require strict rules…
BTW, strange statements for a person in this forum for over a year. Your list doesn’t look like something an editing photographer would prepare, does it? Just don’t worry about nothing, you’ll stay more healthy.
However, another user has already informed me that there is a workaround: while in the crop tool, you can still hit Ctrl+L/R to change orientation, and then continue cropping/rotating.
.
It’s the same as the screenshot above [and not about rotating the crop aspect ratio], and you’re talking about an image that maybe has the wrong orientation, you correct it, and then crop it. But sometimes there are images that no, they may work better rotated or not, not all photos are landscapes or portraits.
But again, this is something that either was fixed, or I didn’t know how to do and now I do, so disregard this part.
.
My request is not unprecise. Create a preset, then go to settings, make DxO apply my preset to every image it loads? What if I want another preset? What if I want no presets? The function of presets is not to fix issues. Why would I need to jump through hoops, working around what should just be the default state: off?
Say you’re working on an image, want to adjust contrast… hit contrast… and suddenly something changed. Oh yeah, DxO changes another setting whether you ask for it or not, unless you specifically tell it not to. WHY? If I wanted to adjust Microcontrast, I’d do it. If I wanted it to automatically adjust it for me, I’d set it to Auto. It should be off by default, like all other adjustments.
.
Please don’t take this the wrong way, but I don’t care at all what happens under the hood, I’m not the developer, I’m the customer and end user. Other programs allow you to do it, it should be in the best interest of DxO to provide maximum functionality to their userbase, and at least be on par with other platforms to stay competitive.
.
That grid does nothing for me, it aligns with nothing, it’s an arbitrary grid.
I also know all the theory and history, that’s not the point, nor is it for you or DxO to school users on “how to best crop”, each user is different and if users want custom overlays, that’s the end of it. LOADS of users use overlays for aligning headshots, for reviewing different aspect ratios, for thirds, for halves, sixths… have you ever used Lightroom? IrfanView? XNView? Corel? Millions of users use cycling grids overlays.
I don’t really follow your last statement, why is it strange and what does being here for over a year have anything to do with it? And even more strangely, the fact that I listed tools inside DxO PL… a software designed for photographers… makes you think I’m what, a dentist?
I’ve used Lightroom for over 10 years with crop grids switched off, as I found them distracting. I’ve tried the other three, not to mention Capture NX, Capture One, PhotoShop, RawTherapee, dcraw, my own tools based on libraw and so on, with many other tools for specific purposes. For my everyday work I prefer to choose just one tool, which I can master according to my needs, but I have to stay open to other choices. In the context of rule of thirds, it’s up to user’s taste whether to use it or not and which software to use for that purpose.
Never tried to do the things your way? Please try, you’ll find the life not so bad. You seem to be a young and active person, so give your creativity a try. Don’t let other people frustrate you, keep on moving. There are plenty of choices ahead. Now, if you try to make money out of photography, it may be a different story - stay tricky…
Nope, a salesman.
BTW, I can’t understand some parts of your reply, maybe it’s a translator problem.
Many feature requests exist and we can find them here:
One of the interesting things to see is how many votes a request has vs. the number if replies, and the manual module selection request is widely uncontested based on the votes/replies ratio.
Anyways, needs vary by user, but be that as it may, DxO had better start adding those features. It would also illustrate DxO’s interest in serving its customers.
Thanks, however I find it easier to use Luminar Neo for this. There’s a “Sky Enhancer” slider that works very well. I would prefer this in PhotoLab though.
That’s why I only use PL7 as a mean to be sure that this example of a mainstream commercially promoted raw-editor doesn’t do something serious, that I can’t obtain with the free Darktable. Further, the chance for a direct dialog with the developers of Darktable is always at hand, as opposed to DxO. Darktable is not difficult, just deep. Try it, it’s yours.
Photographing the sky with a wide angle lens and polariser usually produces uneven results because polarisation and filter effect depend of how light enters the filter. This leads to parts of the sky being deep blue while other parts remain unchanged. Equivalent focal lengths shorter than, say, 24mm can cause the effect.
Fixing this automatically is next to impossible unless some machine learning AI is applied.
The ill effect of polariser and wide angle can be worked around with a radial mask, or, in PhotoLab with a u-point or control line local adjustment.
Explained by @platypus above.
Shooting at 24mm FF strongly polarized sky with a polar filter at its strongest setting is widely considered a ‘user error’, so my post was a kind of ‘heavy joke’. With 24-70 zoom, if you don’t want to put the polar on and off all the time, just turn it at wider angles by 90 degrees to get something more acceptable. Usually I don’t use it wider than on ca 50mm but some scenes allow to use it even at 24mm, e.g. provided it’s in portrait orientation with trees on both sides and just a little sky in the middle. To avoid impossible to correct unpleasant vignetting at the corners, shoot a bit wider to crop later. Also, camera AWB often gets fooled by the polarizing filter.
Yea.
I looked at that at the time.
But as you say the lens is a beast and the filter arrangement isn’t small either.
I sold the 14-24 in the end and got the 20/1.8 and 24/1.8 instead.
I stand corrected; and all this is subjective, but why would you want to change the name of the original file, thereby making it very difficult to find in the future? Unless, of course, you change the names of all the files en masse with keywords, adding to your workflow, etc. And again, why would you want to do all this assuming someday you might need to find the file again? Again, as I said, all this is subjective, but I work with a goal of reducing my workload not adding to it now and in the future. It’s been my experience changing the name of the original raw file has never been a good idea for me.
I may haven’t understood your message, but I don’t want to change the name of the original file but the exported files as in this way:
NameEvent_01.jpg … NameEvent_xx.jpg
