Anyway internal sensor cleaning never put dust outside the camera. So it has to go somewhere …
At least this is what I understand.
I will leave it for @Joanna to answer you, but I’m confused. It seems to me like the DxO software can obliterate noise. There are four settings, “High Quality”, “PRIME”, “DeepPRIME”, and the newest one, “DeepPRIME XD”. It is best if you have a computer with a graphics card, but even without that, it takes time, but the digital noise seems to vanish. One of these days, I need to ask when to use the XD version rather than DeepPRIME, but not only does the software get rid of noise, it does the best job of maintaining sharpness while doing so.
If you want to both understand and check your sensor for dust, here is a good reference article, including the test to check for sensor dust:
I’m interested in what @Joanna will have to say about sensor dust and the D850 sensor cleaning tool. Thanks to you, I did some research, and found this, for me:
https://onlinemanual.nikonimglib.com/d780/en/16_technical_notes_06.html
Thank you for posting your question.
Yes, it can very well. But Joanna showed some example of some precise settings and I’m sure (hope ?) she will understand my question.
It’s not about photolab, just about her experience about the same camera I have. Don’t worry about it.
Use base iso and the bluesky.
Point upwards best is tripod so no movenent in angle an use small aperture.
Then shoot bracket 3 times. (flying objects will be on different places in the 3 shots.)
Zoom in a couple of mm.
Agian bracked 3 times
Zoom in a couple of mm.
Again.
Compare different focal lengths.
Same spot distance and position?
Sensor. Or the back of your lens 
Same position but different space/positions between each other??
One of the lens parts of the lens. => change lens try again.
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I bought a Pentax sensor cleaning wand I saw a Leica engineer using on YouTube for my mirrorless camera, I also have a D850 which I’ve not had to clean yet but the process is probably the same with the mirror locked up.
Take off lens, suck (not blow) out dust, change pants for the scary bit, use the pen, or
Take it to a service centre
I, personally, never use the history. Why? because if you have to go back more than one step to correct something, the correction you make then becomes the last operation on the stack and you lose everything you had previously done after it. Just go to the tool you used and zero it out.
The image of the lighthouse was taken in 2005 on my old Nikon D100, which was highly susceptible to dust, especially when changing lenses.
The D850 camera cleaning mechanism seems to be good enough most of the time, as I rarely change lenses and, when I do, it is very carefully, with the camera pointing down. I do have cleaning swabs and liquid just in case things do get grungy, but have rarely, if ever had to do that.
It certainly can, using the NR tools, but not dust spots - those need to be removed using the repair tool.
Blue sky? We live in Brittany so have to choose our days carefully to get a blank blue sky 
Apart from that, you shared a very good routine for checking.
@mikemyers noise is produced by the electronics of the sensor - this is what DeepPRIME is second to none at removing, using AI to distinguish between electronic noise and image detail. Dust spots are down to operator error (letting dust in whilst changing lenses) DeepPRIME doesn’t know how to eliminate those because they are due to HI (human intelligence).
Just as with the different sharpening tools, it all depends on the image you are working on and the effect you want. There are no rules just experience.
Although, having said that, there is one rule - leave DeepPRIME on for all RAW images, no matter what their ISO, it helps with shadow detail.
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Do not use a home vacuumcleaner with a metal pipe! Static buildup by the airflow can damage your electronics! If you do then alway’s ground pipe and camera together with your hand or electral wire and tape to equal potential between vacuumpipe and camerabody.
Greyisch dull weather works less because of no contrast.
Use your white bed sheet instead …
Heaven forbid!! RS Components have some small hand held vacuum pumps for less that £20 that would do the job
I doubt a vacuum pomp alone is of any use.
George
To me it appears like a rather reckless idea. D850 doesn’t have in-body stabilisation, but those cameras which have, the sensor itself is less a problem than sucking it away from it’s joints. To get light dust particles away from the glass surface of the sensor, you need a lot of vacuum, especially when they are not only dust but combined with a bit moisture.
A good blower and holding the camera with the mount downside is better in my experience. Also the rubber stick does a great job, and eventually also a static brush to draw the dust of the sensor.
But since some people think noise reduction also helps against dust on sensors… and other think the sensor shake would help to clean the sensor, phew… 
That is what I have always done and, so far, apart from persistent crud, it generally works.
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I was only referring to digital noise.
Dust spots are nothing more than a record of what the sensor saw (or didn’t), and they become part of the image, just like if we hold our fingers in front of the camera lens. No way for software to figure that out - and most of my “dust spots” lately have turned out to be birds. Sometimes I treat them as dust, as that’s what they appear to be.
You have some rather strange ideas.
Regarding your second point, something copied from one of my searches:
“First, use the internal, automated cleaning feature of your camera. Most current digital cameras have a built-in feature that will physically vibrate the sensor at a very high frequency, which will essentially shake the dust off of the sensor and clear up any dark spots you’re seeing in shots.”
Air in a can.
Hold the body lens mount down.
Use the incamera sensor cleanig wile holding lensmount down. Remove lens wile holding it down.
Then use air in the can from a good distance because of freeze risk if you stick the nossle to close in the body, in short pufs. You get a swirl of clean air. Don’t blow yourself! You get oral bacteria inside which can grow.
Then use specific size for your sensor sensorswap.
AND CLEAN THE USED LENS BEFORE MOUNTING.
99% effective.
Those i use normally but when the dustspots are persistent thrn i use the aircan 20 cm from the mount opening and wave from left to right with a wristmotion.
Just a stronger blow then that rubber blower.
Due the wrist motion you have very shortvime actual airflow in the camera so no condensation.
That’s a good one, coming from you… 
And you will take all particles between the nozzle mound of the aircan and your sensor take with the airstream and give them a good chance to stick on the sensor. Or get in between the shutter and travel onto destination sensor. Have you been eating ice-cream when the subject of fluid dynamics was explained in school?
After many suggestions, I bought one of those years ago. So far it has worked every time I needed to get rid of dust particles, and it has been even more useful in cleaning dust off negatives.
I still have all the other “stuff” I bough of sensor cleaning - never got to use it.
Joanna, if your D850 is like my D780, Nikon suggests cleaning with the lens opening pointing forwards, not down:
https://onlinemanual.nikonimglib.com/d780/en/16_technical_notes_06.html
Using the Menus
- For maximum effect, hold the camera in normal orientation (base down).
I didn’t realize this until now.